DAY 19
105KM | 580 HM | Ø Temp 20° | Cloudy with rain showers
Σ1532 KM | 6336 HM
From Binz to Art
Back on German soil, Rügen greeted me with bright sunshine. My route took me straight through the Baltic Sea resort of Binz, where I was greeted by a dream beach: fine, white sand and crystal-clear water that almost exuded a Caribbean flair. As I cycled along the beach promenade, the trees with their gentle shadows provided an additional level of relaxation. But as soon as I reached the mainland, the idyll was over. In front of me lay an avenue with an endless, bumpy cobblestone road. This was exactly where my suspension fork came in handy, dampening every bump and saving me from sore wrists - much to the envy of all cyclists with rigid forks. After this involuntary shaking massage, I also got a free shower from above. I cycled on undeterred, and my persistence was rewarded: I came across a sculpture park that stretched over several hectares. Huge, impressive works of art dominated the landscape and left a lasting impression on me. A real highlight even for those who don't like art - and an unexpected and fascinating change for me!
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DAY 20
77KM | 336HM | Ø Temp 21° | Sunny - slightly cloudy
Σ1609 KM | 6672 HM
island of Usedom
The island of Usedom beckoned with one of the longest beaches in the Baltic Sea - over 40 kilometers of the finest sand, divided between Germany and Poland. I cycled comfortably parallel to the beach to Swinoujscie in Poland and then on to Kamminke on the Szczecin Lagoon. There a small bicycle ferry was waiting to take me to the other side to Ueckermünde. Small but mighty! The ferry fought bravely against the big waves and rocked left and right - like a rollercoaster ride on the water. I felt really sick, but luckily my stomach had the upper hand at the end of the crossing and I got off the boat with a relieved smile - everything went well!
This ferry marked the end of my island hopping adventure and my farewell to the Baltic Sea. From there, my journey took me further south - with one smile and one tear in my eye and a lot of salty sea air in my luggage.
DAY 21
134 KM | 615 HM | Ø Temp 22° | Sunny - slightly cloudy
Σ1743 KM | 7287 HM
Along and at the Border
The compass needle of my tour has turned 180° - from now on we are heading south. I can already hear the mountains calling in the distance. From Ueckermünde my route led through beautiful forests, past gigantic wind turbines that looked like huge fans (unfortunately without any cooling effect), and across wide meadows with fields that seemed familiar to me. Finally I reached the Oder, which runs as the border between Germany and Poland and indicated my direction. But the word "border" unfortunately also applied to a part of my body: my right Achilles tendon was throbbing with pain, as if it had developed its own beat. The first symptoms had already appeared the day before on Usedom and had not improved overnight. So it was time to go to the pharmacy! Armed with ointments, tablets and perhaps a touch of desperate hope, I continued on. I also did stretching exercises every 30 minutes - of course in the firm belief that Dr. Internet is always right. And lo and behold: with a mixture of painkillers, stretching and sheer defiance, I actually managed to complete 134 kilometers. A bit of gritting your teeth is part of it.
DAY 22
93 KM | 187 HM | Ø Temp 28° | Sunny - clear
Σ 1837 KM | 7474 HM
Blazing sun
Wer schnell von A nach B kommen möchte, ist auf dem Oder-Neiße-Radweg goldrichtig. Die Strecke verläuft fast schnurgerade und ohne einen einzigen Anstieg – perfekt für all jene, die das Tempo lieben. Die Oder selbst ist ein Paradies für Naturliebhaber: reich an Naturschutzgebieten, Auenlandschaften und einer Vielzahl von Pflanzen und Tieren, die hier ihr Zuhause gefunden haben. Klingt idyllisch, oder? Ja, bis man auf den Schattenmangel stößt. Denn Bäume? Fehlanzeige. Bei über 32 Grad und ohne nennenswerte Wolken fühlte ich mich wie ein Stück Speck auf dem Grill – Brutzeln inklusive. Der Weg verlief größtenteils auf dem Damm, was einer permanenten Hitzeschlacht gleichkam.
Immerhin gab es auch gute Neuigkeiten: Die Schmerzen in meiner Achillessehne hatten über Nacht spürbar nachgelassen. Die Präparate aus der Apotheke waren ein echter Volltreffer. Endlich konnte ich wieder ohne „Au!“-Momente in die Pedale treten – kleine Siege sind auch Siege!
DAY 23
105 KM | 292 HM | Ø Temp 30° | Sunny - clear
Σ1942 KM | 7766 HM
With new footholds on new paths
On the 23rd day of my bike trip, I had already covered 1,900 kilometers - and my tire had covered an impressive 4,500 kilometers. The tread? Only a vague hint of what it once was, and I had already patched two holes in the tire along the way. So it was high time for new tires! But who would have thought that it would be so difficult to find a workshop that could fit tubeless tires on the spot - and also had the right size in stock? I had already tried workshops in Denmark and on Rügen to no avail. So Plan B was needed: the tubeless system was sent into well-deserved retirement and I returned to the good old tube solution. On the 19th day of my trip, I ordered the tires I wanted and had them delivered to a packing station - about 300 kilometers further along my route. After a few phone calls, I finally found a small bike workshop that was willing to help me on the spot despite their busy schedule - a real stroke of luck! In front of the small shop I was allowed to try out the new tires myself - with the tools and even washing equipment provided. I also had a great conversation with the owner, about the infinite intricacies of the bicycle universe, of course. Sometimes it's the little encounters that make the biggest impression.
DAY 24
136 KM | 494 HM | Ø Temp 27° | Sunny - slightly cloudy
Σ2078 KM | 8260 HM
Bad Muskau
With fresh tires under me, I continued along the Lusatian Neisse - and finally the route offered more than just straight stretches. It meandered through the landscape, took me over small hills and through shady forests, which on this day offered a welcome respite from the sun. It was almost as if the cycle path had decided to surprise me with more curves and variety - and I gratefully accepted it.
The Neisse, like the Oder before it, forms the natural border between Poland and Germany and with historical Silesia. A border with a history that is literally imprinted on the landscape.
A real highlight on this route was the Muskau Park with its magnificent castle, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The impressive grounds, lovingly designed by the eccentric Prince Hermann von Pückler-Muskau, invite you to linger and take a deep breath with its extensive paths and picturesque views of the castle.
At the end of the day I finally reached Görlitz, the easternmost city in Germany. Another milestone on my journey – and the perfect place to put your feet up and reflect on the day's impressions.
DAY 25
0 KM | 0 HM | Ø Temp 20° | Rain
Σ2078 KM | 8260 HM
Görliwood
On the 24th day of my trip, rain gave me a break, which I gratefully accepted in Görlitz. The river Neisse separates Görlitz from its Polish neighbor Zgorzelec, and the city exudes a unique mixture of history and culture. The Silesian influence is still clearly noticeable here - baroque facades, magnificent Renaissance buildings and lovingly restored old town streets tell of a long, eventful past.
Did you know that Görlitz is also called "Görliwood"? The beautiful old town with its historical backdrop has made the city a popular filming location for international film productions. Films such as "The Reader" and "Grand Budapest Hotel" were filmed here, and Görlitz is often transformed into a Hollywood backdrop. The mix of Silesian charm, cross-border atmosphere and a touch of film glamour makes Görlitz simply unique - a real insider tip!
DAY 26
64 KM | 357 HM | Ø Temp 24° | Sunny - slightly cloudy
Σ2142 KM | 8617 HM
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border triangle
Day 26 continued. The first hills appeared on the horizon: the Zittau Mountains. After almost 26 days of flat terrain, it was a welcome change to finally experience a little more depth on the cycle route. Of course, that also meant that the coming stages would be much more demanding - but hey, after so many kilometers I felt like an old Tour de France veteran, just with more snack breaks. At the end of the day's stage, I reached the border triangle - the fascinating point where Germany, Poland and the Czech Republic shake hands. Then my path led me to the old town of Zittau - a true pearl in the border triangle. The narrow streets with the baroque house facades and the market square with the magnificent town hall, framed by palm trees, exuded a touch of Italian flair. A perfect end to the day - with a large portion of ice cream in hand, of course.
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Discover all pictures and routes via kommot
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